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The kokoshniks could be quite extravagant, even if they were worn by farmers wives, and were composed of gold brocade, damask, or velvet, with gold embroidery usually of plant and flower motifs
The silhouette traces to Greek and Roman classical dressing (the chiton and stola) reinterpreted in early-1800s Europe
All fur coat and no knickers is not an insult now
Standard hemlines often hit mid-calf instead of the floor, and waistlines sit too high
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